Part 2- Comparing those measurements to the pattern.
(In case you missed it please read part 1 before you continue.)
Now the fun part… comparing those measurements to a pattern.
** Disclaimer: This blog post will not cover picking the right size or anything else that is not related to the crotch curve of the pants. We will only be covering how to use those crotch specific measurements taken from part 1 and compare them to the pattern.***
Things to note before we start…
The measurements taken for the crotch hook are taken from the middle of the leg. Assuming that the inseam will fall in the middle of the leg. Not all pants are drafted to have the inseam fall directly in the middle. Sometimes the inseam could fall more towards the front. One example of this is fitted jeans. Take note of this by looking at some modeled pictures of the pattern. Either way, focus on the saddle’s total. (Saddle: total seat width.)
I have given you an order in which to check/adjust these measurements (Crotch Hook, Crotch Length, and last Crotch Depth) on a pattern. The reason why it’s so important to do it in this order is that each measurement/adjustment will affect the next one. You will see when you start adjusting. To be honest, crotch depth is not the most pressing measurement to compare because whatever you do to the crotch length does also affect the crotch depth. I still list it as the last thing to check even though I encourage people not to worry too much about crotch depth. The only time where you can really see issues arise with the crotch depth is when the model drafted height is considerably different from yours.
Step 1. Draw your seam allowances or stitching line.
I encourage you to do this because not only will it show you were exactly the pattern itself is, but we need to draw out more lines later and accuracy is important.
Step 2. Draw the crotch level
This is a line from the crotch hook tip to the side seam. It must be perfectly squared and perpendicular to the grainline. (Green line is the crotch level)
Step 3. Check the crotch hook/extension for front and back with L shape ruler.
(When I am referring to places where the ruler should touch, I am referring to the inside of the L shape ruler. This is the area where the ruler touched your body.)
Place the bottom of the L shaper ruler on the crotch level. Then, scoot the side of the ruler until it touches the center front or center back. The ruler must be level and not tilted.
Step 4: Check to see if the crotch hook tip matches your measurement.
If it does: leave it
If it doesn’t and the pattern hook is too short … extend it.
If it doesn’t and the patterns hook is too long … shorten it.
BEFORE YOU ADJUST… check both front and back hooks. This goes back to the point I made earlier that sometimes the inseam will not fall directly in the middle of your leg. Take note of your total hook width and compare it to the patterns total hook width. Then you can make the decision of where to add/subtract.
How I would extend it.
Step 5. Measure crotch length.
This is where ease is taken to account. Each pant style has a different amount of ease added to the crotch length. (Amount of ease is up to the discretion of the pattern maker. Usually, you will not find this noted in a pattern so the following are a general estimate of ease in the crotch length.)
Your Aim: Your crotch length + Ease = Total crotch length on pattern.
Amount of ease:
(This amount is divided evenly to front and back.)
Fitted jeans- 0″
Jumpsuit, culottes: 1-1.5″
Measure the crotch curve of the pattern after you adjusted the crotch hook and compare that measurement to your ideal length.
***Consider also where the top of the waistband should be hitting. Is the pattern intended rise at the waist (high rise)? Is it midrise? Low rise?***
If you need to remove or add to crotch length, make a wedge adjustment hinging from the side seam. (See purple line below. Around hip level.)
Warning… if your length with ease is more/less than 1.75″-2+” of difference. Check your crotch depth next before deciding to adjust the length. This goes back to the point where I said that crotch depth and length go hand in hand and affect each other.
Step 6. Double-check crotch depth.
Crotch depth is measured from waistline to crotch level on a pattern of the front pattern piece. Crotch depth also has ease depending on pant style, usually around the same amount as the crotch length. (See above for amounts, I usually like to keep it around 3/4″-1″ ease)
Your Aim: Your crotch depth + ease = pattern crotch depth
If you have noticed a considerable difference for the crotch length in step 5 this is when you would check the crotch depth and more often you will notice a big difference in crotch depth on the pattern. If so, adjust and check crotch length again
The picture below: I had noticed that the crotch length of this pattern was 3-4″ different than my aimed length. So I checked the crotch depth, and even with ease, there was a big difference in the depth. (Blue marking on ruler is my waist line.)
Adjustments to the crotch depth are made in the same area as the crotch length. But instead of a wedge, you will completely take off the length. Equal amount across the whole pattern.
I removed crotch depth to the aimed amount. Then remeasured the length again and it (the length) ended up being exactly where I wanted it.
1. Crotch hook/extension
2. Crotch length with ease
3. Crotch depth with ease.
4. Lines are trued and pattern pieces are walked.
5. The hook point is at a right angle and not pointy.
Now tissue fit or muslin. Thank you for reading!
***This post is not sponsored. None of the companies of the pattern shown are in collaboration.
Part 3 in the series will be next on the blog if I receive any FAQ regarding this topic.
One semester in my pattern making course, I had the opportunity to learn about drafting pants. One of them specifically, drafting a pant block from a skirt sloper. That process really made everything about fitting pants click. I made the connection between the major fitting points of the body to the pattern. I also remembered watching my instructor have a tissue fitting session of a pants pattern on a student and explaining what to look for. It was all so fascinating! I started to see exactly what I think most of us have been missing when it comes to pants fitting… understanding the crotch. So I started to implement what I have learned from school, along with my own experiences, I made a routine when it comes to measuring and checking a pattern.
This post I will only cover the crotch fitting. The whole entire fitting process of pants is some what extensive and I think the crotch area is where a lot of people have the most issues. So hopefully I can keep it short and to the point.
Record the following measurements
You will need to record the following measurements and compare the following measurements to the pattern in this order. It must be done in this order to get the most accurate fit. All the following measurements can be easily taken with a L shape square ruler and a measuring tape.
Crotch hook or extension (For front and back)
Crotch length (Length total and front/back separately)
One of the common responses I received from people was that they didn’t have an L shape square ruler. So in this tutorial I will show you how to make one so we can record the majority of the measurements needed.
Make your L shape ruler
1 sheet of cardstock, magazine board, or cardboard
Pen, pencil, or marker. I prefer to use 3 different color markers.
2″ in width
Cut out right angle of board.
Use the remaining board to extend L shape out.
A quicker way to take your crotch length and have seperate measurements for the front and back. I reccomend taping two measuring tapes together at the beginning
Record your crotch hook/extension and crotch depth on ruler.
Wear fitted clothing when taking your measurements. I reccomend wearing leggings where the inseam falls directly in the middle of your leg.
Place a thin elastic around your natural waist. This is where you have a natural bend in your side. Usually where you would like to have the top of a pair of high waisted pant to be. Have this elastic parallel to floor.
3. Mark the back crotch hook. Place the L shape ruler in between your legs from the back like so… (see picture below). Make sure that the bottom of the ruler is touching your seat and parallel to floor. The other side of the L shaper ruler touching your buttock and perfectly perpendicular to the floor. It is important that the L shape ruler is not tilted in any way.
4.Mark at the top of the bottom of the ruler in one color, where the inseam of the garment fall on the ruler. When marking stand as straight as you can, if you can’t have someone help you mark.
5.Repeat for the front, marking the front in another color. Things to note for the front is if your bust gets in the way of keeping the ruler from touching your belly and staying perpendicular to floor, cut the ruler shorter.
6. While the L shaper ruler is placed in the front, go ahead and mark your crotch depth. This marking will be along the side of the ruler that is perpendicular to floor. Go ahead and mark where the elastic that was placed on your waist falls on the ruler. Your ruler should look like this…
Blue line: my waistline
Green line: my front crotch hook/extension
Purple line: my back crotch hook/extension
7. Measure your crotch length using the measuring tape. Place the joining point of the two tapes in the middle of your seat (where the inseams intersect). Take note of the full length, front and back in seperate measurements. This will be from front waistline -down and up to the back waistline.
Now you should have all the following measurements recorded and marked on the L shape ruler.
-Crotch hook/extension front
-Crotch hook/extension back
-Crotch total length
-Crotch front length
-Crotch back length
Next blog post will be Part 2: Comparing those measurements to pattern.
May means summer time is around the corner and it also means that one of the Sew My Style 2020 featured pattern is the Rio from True Bias! The pattern is designed with a short sleeve, but let me show you how you can EASILY make this into a tank top. With this post I will be showing you how I do a wide racer back look, but you can adjust this any way you like.
*Disclaimer: I am a #SMS20 leader so the pattern was sponsored for this blog post. But all opinions and text are of my own and honest. Fabric is NOT sponsored. None of the links are affiliate links.
Pattern pieces you will need:
This can be applied to both versions (top and dress).
Draw out the seam allowance around the armseye, shoulder and neckline. This will help with visually seeing the stitching lines.
Shorten the shoulder seam on both front and back bodices down to 1/2″ wide. (Closure to the neckline)
Redraw the armseye connecting the new shoulder point to the bottom of the armseye. Repeat for the other bodice.
Add seam allowance to the new armseye.
Measure the new armseyes stitching line.
Create a armhole binding pattern piece. Take your total armseye measurement and figure out 80% of that measurement. Dimension of the armhole pattern piece should be the width of the neckbinding (2.25″) X 80% of your armseye length plus seam allowance for either side.
2.25″ width X (80% of armhole length + twice the seam allowance) length = dimension of armhole binding.
Scrolling through Pinterest I came across this picture of a fabric pantry sack and wanted one for myself. So the following tutorial is how I made one for myself. Please feel free to change dimensions and contructions as you see fit.
Cotton or Linen fabric : any natural fiber fabric that has been pre-washed.
Velcro (If you do not have velcro you can switch and make this into a drawstring bag.)
Vinyl (If you do not have any vinyl you can recycle any plastic or mesh from your kitchen.)
Dimensions to cut:
I cut out a long rectangle 30″ X 15″. I made it this was so I can just fold it in half and just sew the side seams to create the sack. Less work.
I cut a 9″x 7″ rectangle.
1″ shorter than the width of the fabric rectangle. (14″ long)
Fold and crease fabric in half. Wrong sides together.
Draw a 6″ x 8″ rectangle on one side of the crease. Draw it on the wrong side of the fabric and aimed for the middle.
Stitch the rectangle. Following the shape of the rectangle and using a normal 2.5mm straight stitch outline the rectangle, this will allow us to cut out the window for the vinyl.
Clip and press back the inside of the rectangle. Toward the wrong side of the fabric. Just like a welt pocket construction, clip the inside of the rectangle up to, but not through the corners.
Trim the folds down to 1/2″. This will remove bulk and help topstitch vinyl on.
Place and topstitch the vinyl on the wrong side of the fabric. You can use wonder tape to help keep vinyl in place.
Fold and press the short ends of the fabric rectangle, 1″. This will be the hem and opening of the sack.
Pin and topstitch the velcro ontop of the hem, on the wrong side of the fabric. Centering it, as it will need to be away from the edge of the fabric and away from the seam allowance. This will also help conceal the raw edges of the hem.
Fold rectangle in half with right sides together, matching hemlines and the crease line is the bottom of the sack.
Stitch side seams at 3/8″. I just used a serger to stitch and conceal raw edges at the same time.
Box corners from the wrong side. This is optional. It is your decision as to how far down you want to do this. I did around 1.5″.
Turn is right side out. You are all done!
*Disclaimer: This tutorial was not sponsored and all materials were purchased myself.
Hi everyone!! So excited to be this year’s Sew My Style leader for the challenge. That means I am leader for the month of May along with my co-leader Julian. We both will be bringing you a blog post featuring that month’s patterns. So for my blog post I am featuring my take on the Rio Ringer tee by True Bias. At the end of this blog post please check out the leaders for this years challenge. They are making some incredible things and have so much knowledge.
*Disclaimer: I am a #SMS20 leader so the pattern and fabric was sponsored for this blog post. But all opinions and text are of my own and honest.
About the pattern:
The Rio pattern is a ringer style T-shirt and dress. With it being fitted, the top hits around the hips and the dress just above the knee. Contrasting ribbing around the crew neckline and short sleeves.
Pattern suggests medium weight knits with around 40% stretch. Spoonflower has a modern jersey that is perfect for this. It’s made of 95% polyester and 5% spandex. Cotton feel and the stretch you need. I picked a “Snow” print. Here is the link so you can see its navy blue background and white specks. For the ribbing, I already had a 2 x 2 rib knit in my stash that I used.
Key things to consider when choosing a fabric:
Stay away from slinky lightweight knits
Make sure the weight of the main fabric and the ribbing are similar. Having one heavier than the other will cause the garment to hang oddly and possibly pull in certain directions that wish not to.
Pick ribbing with really good stretch recovery factor. The ribbing will be stretched as you sew so you don’t want any rippling effects afterwards due to the lack of recovery.
I chose the size recommended per size chart, size 10. No adjustments made.
My Measurements: 5’4″ height
Thoughts on sizing:
This fit was spot on for me. It says its intended fit is a semi-fitted look and it was just that.
How many pattern pieces:
5 pieces- front and back bodice, sleeve, neck and sleeve hem band.
The construction was very different than what you usually see in most patterns. It has you sew the sleeves, neck band and sleeve band in the flat and not in the round. It has the construction commonly found in the industry. The pattern has you sew one shoulder then attach the neck band in the flat, as well as the sleeves. The neck and sleeve bands are also constructed differently. It has you sew it as a single flat fold binding. You attach on side of the binding right sides together, then fold in seam allowance on the other side of the binding then top stitch it closed.
What was the hardest part of the pattern:
I found nothing hard about this pattern. But if I had to choose what the hardest step is, is the folding over the seam allowance in the binding. depending on the fabric you might have a hard time keeping that crease on a knit fabric. I don’t think anyone in testing had a problem with it at all. Tips I would suggest is starching it or use wonder tape to keep in flat. A walking foot will be your best friend in something like this as well.
What was unique about the pattern:
The construction of the pattern. It’s different and refreshing.
Tips on construction:
If you have trouble folding over the 1/4″ seam allowance on the ribbing, here are some tips to help make it easier.
Use Wonder Tape to help keep the fold over edge put. It’s 1/4″ wide, the perfect width and its washes away.
Use starch. As you fold over the 1/4″ seam allowance starch it before you iron. This will help keep the fold edge crease in tact better.
What I did differently:
I didn’t do anything different than what was recommended in the pattern.
What did I like/dislike about the pattern:
There is nothing I dislike about this pattern. I hope people don’t see this as a very basic pattern because I think this pattern has such potential for you to recreate different things. I would have like to see more options like a tank or a different neckline option.
Opinions on drafting/pattern making:
The pattern making on this was perfection. I did not see anything odd or disagreed with. This has been a great pattern to work with and I can see so much potential for hacks. Classic timeless style for anyone.
Classic raglan style cropped hoodie. Three different sleeve, two different lengths, and two hem style options.
Sleeves are long, full, gathered with cuff and the other a standard look long sleeve with cuff. Hem has a cropped version with hem band. The other is one that hits high waist with drawstring insertion.
I chose to do View B with short sleeves. The full length with gathered hem. Drawstring in the hoodie and hem.
Medium weight knits with 50-75% stretch. Things like French Terry, fleece and jersey. Hood has a lining and is recommended to use a lighter weight knit for the lining.
I used a brushed French terry from Surge Fabrics. This was a great fabric to use. It’s easy to sew and very comfortable to wear. A little bit lighter than I expected, so it made it feel slightly more like a top than a hoodie. The pattern recommends to use a lighter fabric for the lining of the hoodie and I did not do that. I should have, with both pieces were made from the same fabric and it did make the hoodie seem a little heavy.
Drawstring in black for both the hoodie and hem. Attached to the drawstring are screwed on aglets.
I made a size 8 all the way with no blending of sizes. I picked size based on my high bust measurement like pattern recommends. No adjustments made. The pattern says it’s a relax fit with around 8″ of ease through the bust. For the short sleeve it did also had a lot of ease in it too. I definitely think it is true to its discription.
How many pattern pieces:
For the view I did, B with short sleeve, there was 5 pieces. Easy!
The construction was pretty standard construction of a raglan t-shirt. Attach the sleeve to the bodice, then the hoodie, and create hems. The attachment of the lining to the hoodie allows you to topstitch a drawstring channel. My view has a fold over hem that acts as the drawstring channel as well. Great construction because it does tell you to interface the areas where you will either insert grommets or button holes for the drawstrings.
What was the hardest part of the pattern:
I don’t think there was anything hard about this pattern if anything it was quick and easy. The only thing I can see as time consuming is threading the drawstring into the casing. But I use a handy tool called the drawstring threader from Dritz. It’s small enough to fit through 1/4″ holes and makes threading drawstring fast.
What was unique about the pattern:
What is unique is the variations of views. I completely agree with all the instructions. I love how it has a short sleeve option which is not common with most raglan style garments nowadays.
What I did differently:
Out of respect for testing I took these photos to show the intended look of the pattern. After completing the test and pictures I did change something. I ended up adding a 1″ wide elastic to the hem casing. For me I really liked the look. It gave more of uniform gathered look.
What did I like/dislike about the pattern:
There is nothing I dislike about this pattern. I love it and will continue to keep this pattern as my go to hoodie pattern.
Opinions on drafting/pattern making:
It’s known that the designer use to work as a pattern maker and it shows through her work. The pattern making in these pattern are far above than most I’ve seen on the market. I have never found errors or things I have disagreed with ever in any of the patterns.
*Disclaimer: I was a tester for this pattern. Which means I did receive this pattern for free to test. All materials used in this test was purchased by me. I was not compensated or obligated to make this post. None of the links are affiliate links.
Removed 1″ wedge from the back leg to remove excess. (Decreasing the outseam)
I really enjoyed making this. This pattern is so easy to construct and you can make this extremely quickly once you have figured out your fit. I have plans to make some out of stretch denim. One thing I would add is that next time I want to add interfacing to the pocket opening. My concerns were that possibly over time (especially with stretch wovens) that the pocket with stretch out over time. But I’m not sure and will have to see how well my pockets on this make hold up. I made the pockets out of the same fabric of the pants. This pattern had control panel pockets which I love.
I really like that this pattern comes with a fitting workbook. It would be helpful for those who are beginners with fitting pants. Easy, quick, and very similar cut to jeans so it would be a great stepping stool to advance to jeans.
If you would like to get yours click here. (Affiliate link)
*I am a Love Notions Ambassador. This post is NOT sponsored. All opinions and text in this post are of my own and honest.
*side note: Do keep an eye on the hip measurement when choosing a size. The hip area is very fitted. Especially when ties are tied. Limited range of motion with arms when tied.
White linen from Joanns Fabric. Shibori dyed it myself.
I chose to do all the seams enclosed for this make. Topstitched self-enclosed seams. I’m glad I did because you can see some seams through the sleeves opening. I did not follow the instructions for the hem. They ask you to do a 1/8″ narrow hem. I find with the weight of fabric I was using and the bias bound neckline a 1/8″ hem seems impossible to do. So I did a 1/2″ hem.
This was a quick easy make. You really don’t need to do a muslin. I might do some of the construction a little differently but thats my opinion. This was a nice unique style since it reminds me of the Happi robes worn by Japanese festival-goers. I would make this probably once more but in a silkier material.
Hi everyone! I recently had the need to make my son’s bear some clothes. I was not having any luck finding teddy bear clothes patterns I wanted so I decided to make something myself. I made his bear a T-shirt out of knit fabric.
I drafted his bear a “sloper”. Then made a T-shirt pattern. I have not seen many teddy bear T-shirt patterns out there so I’m going to put one out there for everyone to enjoy. It’s free when you sign up for my email listing. Please note: This pattern is free and is for the public. If you do decide to share your make on social media it would help me a great deal if you tag me (@winmichele for Instagram), or mention my website (www.winmichele.com).
Things to point out:
-This PDF does not come with full length illustrated directions. Just an abbreviated version of directions on the PDF itself.
-Please, when printing select to print in “actual size”. Check the square gauge on the first page to make sure that the pattern is printing in the correct scale.
-Download and print off of Adobe Acrobat only.
*NOTE: The PDF you will not need to paste together. All pattern pieces fit within the borders of the layout.
This pattern is made for knit fabrics with a 50% stretch. Please see the gauge on the PDF to double-check if your fabric meets the requirements.
I had placed the t-shirt on two different bears for fit reference. Let me give you the measurements of both bears for reference.
The Build A Bear brand:
Neck: 12″ circumference
Chest: 16″ circumference
Seat: 18″ circumference
This unknown brand:
Neck: 9″ circumference
Chest: 15″ circumference
Seat: 17″ circumference
Thank you so much for wanting to make this T-shirt. Check out other makes through this Instagram hashtag. #teddybeartshirtpattern
I recently tested the new pattern by Chalk and Notch. The Crew Pants and Shorts. This pattern company is one of my favorites because of all the little details that go into their patterns. They are all noticed by me and I can always count on them being well made.
Features of the pattern:
Pants and short options
Side Lap zipper with hook and eye (button option available with fly shield as an option)
Front pleats and back darts
Pants have tapered leg
Shorts are a standard width
The size I made and adjustments:
I choose a size 12 all the way down. The only adjustments I made are taking out 1.5″ in the crotch length both front and back.
Things to consider:
Definitely muslin this before making. And try to muslin with the same fabric or similar. I muslined with muslin cotton fabric and the final garment I made out of linen. The linen fabric I chose was a really loose weave which in the end made the pants feel bigger than the muslin did.