Hello, lovely sewist!
Before I start showing off my latest make of the Pona Jacket
I wanted to share some pointers on fitting the Pona. This pattern is designed with a lot of ease and is a loose fit jacket. There is really a lot of room for any fitting issues to arise and I think many dive straight into making this jacket. If you are wanting to just dive right in let me share some tips on key things you should measure before you get started. I will walk you through step by step of my pre-measuring fitting check.
**Disclaimer: As one of the leaders for Sew My Style 2020 I am obligated to write two blog posts on the patterns assigned for my month. Patterns are gifted for the leaders but all opinions and text you find here are of my own and honest.
In this tutorial I will stay away from giving suggestions on how to make the adjustment to the pattern since there many sources out there. I will link to a good source for pattern alterations here.
Step 1: Look at the pattern
Take notes of the following by looking at the pattern description, modeled pictures, and line drawings.
- Where does the hem of the jacket fall on the body?
View A – mid-thigh a
View B – high-hip
- Where does the sleeve length hit on the body?
Option 1 – Full length
Option 2- Past elbow
- Where does the should seam of the garment hit on the body?
Past the shoulder, in between shoulder point and bicep line.
- What is the overall intended fit of the pattern supposed to be?
Oversized and loose-fitting.
Step 2: Select a size
It’s best to select the size as the pattern suggests. In this case, I chose a size based on my high bust measurement.
My high bust 34″
Since my high bust was in between sizes, the pattern suggests I size down.
Size selected = Size 8
Check the finish garment measurement of the hips. You want at the very least the minimum wearing ease
(link to my blog post on minimum ease) on top of your actual hip measurement. It’s up to you if you would like to blend in between size but do not blend sizes based on the size chart.
This would also be the time to decide if you would need to make a small bust adjustment or full bust adjustment. If your sewing bust cup size does not match to that of the pattern. You will need to do a small or full bust adjustment.
Step 3: Print pattern and draw out seam allowances/seam lines
Once you have printed out your pattern go ahead and draw the seam allowances or seam line of the patterns back, front, and sleeve only. This will allow you to visually see the pattern itself and accurately measure it. This is where you will be able to blend between sizes if you feel the need to.
Step 4: Back shoulder width
(See the following image to know exactly where to measure.)
By marking the stitching line you can bring that line all the way up to shoulders. This will give us a “general” idea where the intended shoulders of the patterm is. It’s not accurate but close. Measure from center back to the line you marked.
- The back shoulder width should be more than your back shoulder width.
Step 5: Sleeve length
From shoulder neck point, measure out and mark your shoulder length on the front pattern piece. From that mark measure along the seam line to the end of the seam line. then add that amount to the sleeve pattern length.
- The sleeve length of the pattern should match yours.
Step 6: Bicep
(See the following image where you can measure.)
Measure the bicep of the pattern piece and compare that to your measurement. You need at the very least 2″ of ease for a fitted look for the bicep. Since this is a jacket I recommend 3-4″ of ease added to your measurement.
- Your bicep measurement + 3-4″ or more ease = finish bicep circumference on the pattern.
Step 7: Front and back waist length
For the back,
measure from center back neck point down to hemline. This measurement should match your ceneter back neck point to mid thigh or high hip.
For the front,
measure from shoulder neck point to hemline. This should match your measurement from shoulder neck point to mid thigh or high hip.
All done! Once you have measured and made any adjustments necessary, go ahead and proceed. If you are not confident of the changes you made please go ahead and make a muslin with just the front, back, and sleeve of the pattern. I am a big believer in muslins and checking fit before ever cutting into final fashion fabric but I would lie if I said I do it on every oversized garment.
Next on my blog: My review and make of the PONA JACKET FROM HELEN’S CLOSET.
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