Part 2- Comparing those measurements to the pattern.
(In case you missed it please read part 1 before you continue.)
Now the fun part… comparing those measurements to a pattern.
** Disclaimer: This blog post will not cover picking the right size or anything else that is not related to the crotch curve of the pants. We will only be covering how to use those crotch specific measurements taken from part 1 and compare them to the pattern. This is for woven patterns only.
Things to note before we start…
- The measurements taken for the crotch hook are taken from the middle of the leg. Assuming that the inseam will fall in the middle of the leg. Not all pants are drafted to have the inseam fall directly in the middle. Sometimes the inseam could fall more towards the front. One example of this is fitted jeans. Take note of this by looking at some modeled pictures of the pattern. Either way, focus on the saddle’s total. (Saddle: total seat width.)
- I have given you an order in which to check/adjust these measurements (Crotch Hook, Crotch Length, and last Crotch Depth) on a pattern. The reason why it’s so important to do it in this order is that each measurement/adjustment will affect the next one. You will see when you start adjusting. To be honest, crotch depth is not the most pressing measurement to compare because whatever you do to the crotch length does also affect the crotch depth. I still list it as the last thing to check even though I encourage people not to worry too much about crotch depth. The only time where you can really see issues arise with the crotch depth is when the model drafted height is considerably different from yours.
Step 1. Draw your seam allowances or stitching line.
I encourage you to do this because not only will it show you were exactly the pattern itself is, but we need to draw out more lines later and accuracy is important.
Step 2. Draw the crotch level
This is a line from the crotch hook tip to the side seam. It must be perfectly squared and perpendicular to the grainline. (Green line is the crotch level)
Step 3. Check the crotch hook/extension for front and back with L shape ruler.
(When I am referring to places where the ruler should touch, I am referring to the inside of the L shape ruler. This is the area where the ruler touched your body.)
Place the bottom of the L shaper ruler on the crotch level. Then, scoot the side of the ruler until it touches the center front or center back. The ruler must be level and not tilted.
Step 4: Check to see if the crotch hook tip matches your measurement.
If it does: leave it
If it doesn’t and the pattern hook is too short … extend it.
If it doesn’t and the patterns hook is too long … shorten it.
BEFORE YOU ADJUST… check both front and back hooks. This goes back to the point I made earlier that sometimes the inseam will not fall directly in the middle of your leg. Take note of your total hook width and compare it to the patterns total hook width. Then you can make the decision of where to add/subtract.
How I would extend it.
Step 5. Measure crotch length.
This is where ease is taken to account. Each pant style has a different amount of ease added to the crotch length. (Amount of ease is up to the discretion of the pattern maker. Usually, you will not find this noted in a pattern so the following are a general estimate of ease in the crotch length.)
Your Aim: Your crotch length + Ease = Total crotch length on pattern.
Amount of ease:
(This amount is divided evenly to front and back.)
Fitted jeans- 0″
Jumpsuit, culottes: 1-1.5″
Measure the crotch curve of the pattern after you adjusted the crotch hook and compare that measurement to your ideal length.
***Consider also where the top of the waistband should be hitting. Is the pattern intended rise at the waist (high rise)? Is it midrise? Low rise?***
If you need to remove or add to crotch length, make a wedge adjustment hinging from the side seam. (See purple line below. Around hip level.)
Warning… if your length with ease is more/less than 1.75″-2+” of difference. Check your crotch depth next before deciding to adjust the length. This goes back to the point where I said that crotch depth and length go hand in hand and affect each other.
Step 6. Double-check crotch depth.
Crotch depth is measured from waistline to crotch level on a pattern of the front pattern piece. Crotch depth also has ease depending on pant style, usually around the same amount as the crotch length. (See above for amounts, I usually like to keep it around 3/4″-1″ ease)
Your Aim: Your crotch depth + ease = pattern crotch depth
If you have noticed a considerable difference for the crotch length in step 5 this is when you would check the crotch depth and more often you will notice a big difference in crotch depth on the pattern. If so, adjust and check crotch length again
The picture below: I had noticed that the crotch length of this pattern was 3-4″ different than my aimed length. So I checked the crotch depth, and even with ease, there was a big difference in the depth. (Blue marking on ruler is my waist line.)
Adjustments to the crotch depth are made in the same area as the crotch length. But instead of a wedge, you will completely take off the length. Equal amount across the whole pattern.
I removed crotch depth to the aimed amount. Then remeasured the length again and it (the length) ended up being exactly where I wanted it.
1. Crotch hook/extension
2. Crotch length with ease
3. Crotch depth with ease.
4. Lines are trued and pattern pieces are walked.
5. The hook point is at a right angle and not pointy.
Now tissue fit or muslin. Thank you for reading!
***This post is not sponsored. None of the companies of the pattern shown are in collaboration.
Part 3 in the series will be next on the blog if I receive any FAQ regarding this topic.
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