It’s beautiful right now in southern Arizona. Once the new year rolls in, my head says it’s Spring time! So that’s when the wheels start to turn for spring wear. We don’t get snow here in southern Arizona and it stays around the 60s F in January. Kinda sounds like Spring time right? Let me just say I had my eyes on the Fulton blazer pattern from Alina Sewing & Design for some time now. I knew I needed to sew it. I love the notched collar, different options and that it is designed for stable knits!
There is one problem… sometimes when I’m shopping for stable knits I don’t see a wide range of color or prints. So I got really excited to see that not only did Stylish Fabrics had a good selection on stable knits but they had a wide range of colors to choose from. I wanted a color that would be great for spring and that would be versatile to dress. Came across this Heavyweight Ponte Roma in the denim color. It’s PERFECT!!! Another perk is that this fabric is wrinkle and crease resistant too!
(Fabric content: 65% Rayon 30% Nylon 5% Spandex. This Ponte is a double knit interlock)
Whenever I get my knits I like to test out the stretch on all grains. Even on the straight of grain to see what I have to work with just in case. Obviously the main stretch is in the cross grain but if you are ever in trouble, with certain pattern pieces like pockets or trim you can get by with that.
Let’s talk about pattern. This was the first time using a pattern from Alina Sewing and Design and I was excited to try. I was impressed by the amount of information given in this pattern. It made the pattern drafting student in me jump for joy. The very detailed final measurements chart was extremely helpful and what blew me away was the information given of intended ease (see fit guide section of instructions). I personally think this will help so many people find their perfect fit and quickly be able to make pattern adjustments accordingly. The adjustments I made to the pattern was widening the width of the bicep, add a little more to sleeve cap height, and shorten the blazer by 1″. You can expect that lack of sleeve cap height to yours will result in some drag lines.
(I originally picked a size 8 based on size chart but after a muslin I ended up with a size 10)
TIP/TRICK OF THE DAY
I’m very active on IG stories (WinMichele) and usually show all my behind the scenes of whatever I’m working on at the moment. I was measuring my pattern pieces (like I always do) and mentioned how I was planning to adjust the sleeve cap height. Later I got questions on “how does someone find the sleeve cap height?” So let me explain it briefly…
- Draw out your seam allowance on your pattern. (This is important) You need the original pattern without seam allowance.
- Draw a straight line from one end of the sleeve cap (armpit location) to the other. (That line is your bicep)
- Measure that line and find the center (divide that number by 2). Mark the center.
- From the center point draw a perpendicular line through the bicep line. Extending it all the way from the shoulder to the wrist.
- From the bicep line to the top of the sleeve cap (shoulder area) is your sleeve cap height.
Now you can compare this to yours.
Sewing this blazer up was a dream, so easy. I love how Alina has a video tutorial on almost every major part of this pattern on her blog. Especially when it comes to sewing up the collar. I try to stick with sewing majority of the garment with the serger since the seam allowance was 3/8″. There were areas I did have to sew with the sewing machine for better results and reduce bulk.
Here’s to happy sewing and pretty Spring wear!
This blog post was sponsored by Stylish Fabrics. All opinions and suggestions are expressed by me with complete honesty.